Plastic usually makes up the shell of the controller or system and are the most obvious source of wear and tear through the years. Often the scratches left from wear get filled in with dirt and grime from storage and contact with human hands. Let’s take a look at how to properly maintain plastics in our retro consoles.
There are different types of plastic and they all age differently. Sometimes it’s the plastic that has aged and changed color rather than a residue left from age. For example, if you own a SNES that is brown (due to exposure to UV light over years), cleaning won’t help with that (the plastic is also likely brittle). That’s the result of a chemical reaction and you’ll want to research retrobrite as a solution. Also, if the system was used by a heavy smoker, cleaning won’t help with that either (as the tar coalesces with the plastic and cannot be removed). Sanding and painting over the plastic is an option, but with UV deterioration the plastic will remain brittle and prone to cracking (although caught early enough, the paint could slow or stop the process).
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
(The system on the right is brown due to a reaction to UV light and requires a chemical reaction to restore. Since only certain years of SNES have the plastic that reacts in this way, I suggest just avoiding those consoles altogether or painting them if they’re not too far gone.)
While we’re discussing the cleaning and maintenance process, I’m going to clean a NES top loader that I picked up for fairly cheap. This will help demonstrate some of the techniques for restoring plastic surfaces (and applies also to controllers).
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
(This NES is incredibly dirty and needs a lot of TLC)
When cleaning up a console, first clean off any dirt and grime on the surface to better see what’s left (and you always want to do this down between controller buttons – which always seem to be amazingly disgusting). For this you can use a spray cleaner or glass cleaner (I prefer an all-purpose product like Fantastik with the added advantage of killing germs – especially important on items I pick up from thrift shops). When it’s practical, I recommend regular soap and water (and if possible soak the plastic in warm water to loosen up dirt – this works especially well for controllers).
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
(After cleaning with Windex, paper towels, and a toothbrush – for the lettering – the surface dust and dirt is gone, but the system still has a grimy appearance.)
If there is any oils or residues (like from stickers) left, you can use 90%+ rubbing alcohol and a paper towel to scrub those away (there are also products like Goo Gone that will help with stickers). If there’s a surface scratch or lettering that has accumulated dirt (like the wording on the back of an NES controller) you can use a toothbrush with soap and water to remove the dirt. Whatever cleaner or compound you use, make sure it contains no acetone or similar solvent – as these eat away or melt plastic. And avoid contact with any labels or letter with any chemicals. It helps to apply the liquid to a brush (like a toothbrush) to better control it (this will also make evaporating liquids like alcohol last longer).
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
(After cleaning with alcohol, a brush, and a pick this is the best I could do.. the dirt is down in the texture of the plastic and it’s still visible. No amount of cleaning with a paper towel could remove this dirt, as the surface of the towel cannot reach the dirt nor the liquid break it up or dissolve it. I could have disassembled the unit completely to soak in warm soapy water – which probably would release the dirt. But there’s an easier way…)
If there is texture or scratches holding dirt that you cannot clean, you may want to use a mild micro abrasive pad (like Magic Eraser, etc). This does two things: first it penetrates the scratch to release the dirt by molding to the surface (that’s the purpose I truly recommend it for). Second, applied more aggressively, an abrasive pad can wear down the edges of a scratch for a smoother surface (which can prevent dirt from re-accumulating again). Since you are essentially sanding out a scratch here, it requires some finesse. So you’re going to want to be careful how much force and time you apply on the console or controller.
This process is best applied with the initial plastic looks terrible (like and old scratched up NES). Chances are you won’t make it look any worse in these cases, but be sure to keep the pad moving and not in one place for very long. I’ve had the best luck with this method on flat surfaces with a texture. Of course you should avoid any painted or printed lettering (like the Nintendo logo on the NES door) and labels (like on NES carts) when using this method. If you have a cart someone has written a name on with a marker, using some rubbing alcohol and a micro abrasive pad can take that right off (without damaging the plastic if you do it lightly).
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
(After using the abrasive pad, the dirt is essentially gone. I went back over it with a paper towel and Windex to remove the residue left over from the pad.)
Many consoles have plastic belts and gears on the inside. It’s recommended to remove any dirt and lint from inside and to apply an oil to lubricate movement of the parts (especially after something’s been sitting unused for a while). Be very careful what kind of lubricant you use on these plastics. Plastics (such as the gears that drive spinning lasers) are often petroleum-based and applying a plastic solvent damages the gear teeth over time. Mineral or lubricating oil is the best option here (use an eyedropper or q tip to apply). If mineral oil isn’t available, WD-40 is safer for plastics than lithium grease (which is a plastic solvent). Fortunately, the gears we’re talking about don’t usually have a lot of friction, so a mineral oil is going to last quite well.
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
(Example plastic gears in a Sega Saturn. If the gear movement isn’t lubricated, the tiny gear teeth might crack or be worn off due to resistance from friction.)
Oils can also have another purpose – shining up and protecting surface plastic. When it comes to shining up the surface of an old console, I would recommend WD-40 applied to a non-abrasive cloth (like those used with car polishes). In doing some light research, WD-40 seems fine for this task. While applying I would take care in avoiding lettering (like the white genesis logo or the red Nintendo logo). The trick is applying a very light coat, letting it rest to absorb, then lightly removing the excess. Plastic can become dry and brittle over years and cleaning in this manner can add back some flexibility and life to the damaged surface. (Note: Don’t use this or any other compound on a painted surface – like a custom console.) Keep in mind that if you apply a light-enough coat, your console or controller won’t smell like WD-40 once you’re done (it will look like brand new, however).
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
(After removing the dirt, I lightly applied WD-40 to restore the shine and provide some protection.. the console looks great at this point).
Hopefully this has given you some ideas about cleaning up an old console you’ve picked up or have had since childhood. Next time we’ll look at metal surfaces.